![]() Good old brands are too numerous to name: PS&W, Lakeshore, Witherby, Barton, etc. My online class has lots of sharpening, purchasing and using info. For that, it’s nice to have a blade that’s 3/16″ thick or so at the edge. None of the new ones has a thin enough blade to allow the drawknife to fit into tight curves such as the seat’s waist. The new ones made in Mexico may be good too, I don’t know.ĭrawknife - Barr Tools and Lie-Nielsen make nice ones, but I like old ones from Ebay. It has a label like this and they can often be found on Ebay. I have a vintage USA-made Collins wedge that works nicely. ![]() Just make sure the taper of the wedge continues all the way to the point, without any secondary bevels. ![]() A blacksmith can draw them to a point, or you can buy good ones used on Ebay. Splitting Wedges: New wedges all seem to have big bevels at the edge that make it hard to start a split. I’ve tried to note those.įroe and Froe Club - If you must buy new I’d buy Lie-Nielsen’s or Lee-Valley’s but I like my old ones better. Some tools, however, are only used for building a specific chair. Wait to buy tools till you get a chance to see what you like during the class.Ī note of warning: I use this list for every chair I teach and for every school I teach at. Maybe you want to practice using your own tools (some tools, especially lathe tools, can feel very different with slight sharpening or manufacturing variations). Maybe you would like help getting some tools tuned up. If the class is at a school, I’ll be bringing or shipping plenty of specialty tools like drawknives, spokeshaves, inshaves, drill bits, etc.īring whatever tools you have. I have all the tools needed if you are attending a class at my shop (except portable drills – please bring yours if you aren’t flying). You DO NOT need to bring all these tools to class. This is a fairly comprehensive list of the chairmaking tools I use.
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